Hiking Off the Beaten Path to Huchuy Qosqo

"How high is this hike again?" I panted, staring up at the seemingly endless mountain trail ahead.

"12,000 feet," our guide Efrain replied cheerfully, effortlessly leading the way. "But don’t worry, it flattens out soon!"

I wasn’t convinced.

When I first reached out to Amazonas Explorers about hiking in the Sacred Valley, I wanted something unique—an adventure away from the crowds. With over 40,000 kilometers of Incan roads, there were plenty of options. The team suggested a full-day trek to Huchuy Qosqo, or “Little Cusco” in Quechua, a lesser-visited archaeological site nestled high in the mountains.

This route, beginning in the village of Taucca, would take us over rugged mountain passes, through abandoned settlements, along ancient terraces, and finally to the breathtaking ruins of Huchuy Qosqo.

The Journey Begins: Climbing to the Heights

We started our ascent straight from Taucca, quickly feeling the effects of the high altitude. Despite spending a week in the region, I still had to pause frequently to catch my breath.

Thankfully, the overcast sky provided some relief from the sun, and a cool breeze kept us comfortable as we made our way up.

The View from Above

Every pause in our climb was an opportunity to soak in the stunning surroundings:

✅ Expansive Mountain Views – Snow-capped peaks stretched across the horizon.
✅ Remote Villages Below – Tiny farms and homes scattered across the valley.
✅ A Landscape Like No Other – The terrain reminded me of Wyoming’s open plains and the volcanic ridges of New Zealand’s Tongariro Crossing.

Fact: The lake near the village is actually part of a hydroelectric dam, supporting local farming communities.

Traversing the Highlands

As we reached the first waypoint—nothing more than a lone telephone pole—the trail leveled out. The conversation turned to food, a favorite topic of mine.

"All those ‘superfoods’ you buy for a premium in the U.S.? We just call them food," my hiking companion Patrice laughed. "Quinoa, maca, amaranth… these have been part of our diet since Incan times."

The path then transitioned from the barren highlands into a lush ravine, lined with trees, vibrant wildflowers, and crumbling Incan walls. Suddenly, we stumbled upon a small, nearly abandoned village.

A Village Frozen in Time

We wandered through a handful of mud-brick houses, many with collapsed roofs, remnants of a once-thriving community.

🏡 Current Residents? Only a handful of families remained.
🐐 The Only Signs of Life? Two women in traditional attire, herding goats.
🏛 Ancient Incan Ruins hidden among the foliage.

At the village’s edge, we stopped near a small waterfall for lunch. It was the perfect spot to rest, watch the goats graze, and chat about the growing Western fascination with ayahuasca retreats in Peru.

Did You Know? Many Westerners seek spiritual experiences with ayahuasca, but locals say few truly understand its deeper significance.

Descending into History: The Final Trek to Huchuy Qosqo

After lunch, we passed through a stone Incan gateway, marking the final stretch of our hike. Efrain pointed out:

✔ Ancient Guardhouses – Used for food storage and census-taking.
✔ Centuries-Old Incan Terraces – Ingeniously built into the mountainside.
✔ Hidden Watering Systems – Essential for sustaining life at high altitudes.

The steep cliffs on either side suddenly gave way to breathtaking views of the Sacred Valley, far below. The realization hit me—I had been walking on the edge of a canyon the whole time!

The Ruins of Huchuy Qosqo

After hours of trekking, we finally reached the lost city of Huchuy Qosqo.

History at a Glance

Though smaller and less elaborate than Machu Picchu, the solitude made it feel even more special.

After soaking in the views, we began the steep descent down a series of grueling switchbacks, eventually reaching the canyon floor where our driver waited.

How to Hike to Huchuy Qosqo

If you’re planning this trek, here’s what you need to know:

Route & Logistics

• Starting Point: Village of Taucca (1-hour drive from Cusco).
• Ending Point: Lamay (where you can catch a bus or taxi back).
• Total Distance: ~10 miles (16 km).
• Duration: Full-day hike (~7 hours).
• Altitude: ~12,000 ft (higher than Machu Picchu!).

Go Solo or With a Guide?

🚶‍♂️ On Your Own: Possible, but not recommended—the trail is poorly marked.
🧭 With a Guide: Highly recommended! Guides provide historical insights and ensure you don’t get lost. I went with Amazonas Explorers.

Tip: There are no signs at Huchuy Qosqo, so without a guide, you won’t know what you’re looking at!

Packing Essentials

✔ Hiking Boots – The terrain is rugged and steep in places.
✔ Plenty of Water – High altitude = faster dehydration.
✔ Sunscreen & Hat – The UV rays are intense, even on cloudy days!
✔ Rain Jacket – Weather can change instantly in the Andes.
✔ Snacks & Packed Lunch – No food available on the trail.

Personal Reminder: Don’t make my mistake—I forgot sunscreen and turned as red as a lobster!

Final Thoughts: An Unforgettable Adventure

As we drove back to Cusco, I gazed out the window, smiling. This was my favorite experience in Peru—more than Machu Picchu, more than the bustling streets of Cusco.

✅ Incredible scenery
✅ A glimpse into rural Andean life
✅ A truly off-the-beaten-path experience

If you want an authentic Andean adventure, Huchuy Qosqo is the hike for you.

Would I do it again?

In a heartbeat.

Plan Your Trip to Peru

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🏨 Where to Stay in Cusco

💡 Budget: Kokopelli Hostel
💡 Mid-Range: Tierra Viva Cusco
💡 Luxury: Palacio del Inka

🌍 Travel Insurance

🚑 Never travel without it! Best providers:

• SafetyWing (budget travelers)
• World Nomads (mid-range)
• Medjet (evacuation coverage)